I know this ship has very much sailed, but does anyone else miss summer produce? I think wistfully of the gleaming peppersgolden palasyo, eggplants and pyramids of corn that filled those warmer months. Perfect heirloom tomatoes, I hardly knew ye. Maybe it’s the fact that it’s currently subzero where I live, or maybe I went too hard on the season’s first squashes, but I find myself craving fresh, zingy, acidic flavors.
So I’m grateful for this new espagueti verde recipe from Paola Briseño-González. For this luscious pasta, shiny green poblano peppers are charred (either over a gas flame or under the broiler) and prepped into silky strips to be tossed with heavy cream, crema (or sour cream) and lots of chopped parsley. “At weddings, baptisms and other special occasions across Mexico, pots of spaghetti coated in creamy green sauce sit on most every banquet table,” Paola writes. “Smoky with charred peppers and tangy with crema, it’s the dish everyone loves.” A celebratory pasta that combines pert peppers with comforting cream — it can’t bring back summer, but it does give me warm feelings.
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Espagueti Verde (Creamy Roasted Poblano Pasta)View Recipe →
Citrus is a surefire way to add brightness to a dish, as is a good squeeze or spoonful of harissa. Colu Henry’s sheet-pan harissa salmon with potatoes and citrus is doubly bright, then, especially with its extra kick from plenty of ginger and garlic.
I don’t mean to shun winter’s wonderful crops, however. I love a leek, and Hetty Lui McKinnon’s miso leeks with white beans is a favorite in my home. Hetty serves hers with soft-centered eggs, but I could see nestling some baked chicken thighs into the beans instead for a very elegant and easy dinner party main.
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